
Photo of Kano in Napa 03 courtesy of N.A.S.T.Y Crew.
British people who work in the media will tell you things like "The UK underground is dead," but that's because they get all their articles and ideas by googling their lives away on friendster.com and gayclub.org.
Anybody who actually lives outside of the ridiculous world of fashion-culture magazines or the totally out-of-touch mainstream radio and TV will tell you there's a million different underground scenes going on all over England all at once.
Just look at the young, black, violent MCs of East London's Grime/Sub-Lo/Eski garage scene (known to most as simply the underground garage scene circa right now). They've created an underground so alive and thriving that it's a mystery why the entire world isn't taking lessons on how to be like them.
Even though Dizzee Rascal made it quite big recently and the liberal Guardian newspaper just wrote a story about Grime, Dizzee and our boy Mike Skinner are like trillionaire violinist pop stars compared to the thousands of underground MCs who make the garage music of today. In fact, most of these MCs have never heard of The Streets and see Dizzee as a successful rapper who used to do garage. Made by some of the poorest kids in inner-city London, the new music consists of rhymes and beats so bristly and violent and fucking brutal and totally unplayable by any radio station ever that the first time you hear it you go, "errrrwoaah phheeeeewwwwwoooooohhhh," like when you've had too many Es and you're trapped in a scary place between ultimate joy and lust and total fear for your life. Some of it's like Napalm Death (first album) crossed with dark fucking rock-slinging East London grimness and The Specials, and it makes Luther Vandross-sampling American hip-hop like Kanye West stand in the music-for-parents corner like it should. MC/producers like Wileywho used to be Dizzee Rascal's right-hand man in the Roll Deep Entouragemake simple, two-note, minor-chord beats out of Playstation 2s, and then press up white labels and sell them out of the boot of their cars at raves. There's no chains or ice, just black Barbour jackets and Evisu jeans climbing up to the top of 38-story tower blocks to place a radio transmitter out of the way of the cops and the DTI (Department of Trade and Industry). If you live in London, there are so many illegal pirate radio stations that it's almost impossible to get the main radio stations on your dial. The stations are hidden away in council-estate kitchens and factory tearooms and underneath railway stations. They're where MCs and producers make their names by spitting lines like "It ain't over 'til the fat lady sings/And I'll slap the fat lady/And if she gets up BLAM BLAM! I'll shoot her back down again" (that's a Ruff Squad lyric). The MCs and producers all have to pay to play on the stations, and they get nothing back from it apart from love and respect from their fellow kids, so it's clear that nothing really matters to them besides their scene. Now the story here is that these kids work harder than most of their parents, and they need a good vacation now and again. Britain is cold and rainy 363 days of the year, and the working-class tradition of cheap package holidays to the Mediterranean makes life worth living for a lot of us, so that's how you get places like Ibiza, where the faggy, white, Ecstasy-riddled, facile house scene still thrives. But while Spain gets didgeridoo-playing, technical-sandal wearing E casualties chewing their faces off and dancing in the sea to Judge Jules, the violent-digital-cacophony scene of new garage goes to the Cypriot island of Ayia Napa. Because the police there are so strict on drug use and the garage scene used to be ruled by rollneck-wearing DJs like Artful Dodger and Dreem Team, Napa was once quite a happy, trouble-free, completely boring place to go. Mainly, it was a lot of fat middle-class white girls out for black cock and tons of embarrassing red-wine-and-shagpile-carpet people in fake Moschino jeans. This year, though, the Grime garage crews are going to descend on Napa in all their spitting glory. All drunk on Alizé and high as fucking kites on skunk with zero females anywhere to take their bloodlust out on, they're going to tear Napa 10 new assholes and then piss all over its bleeding sores and laugh like hyenas. "Grime is just bare noise, bruv," explains ex-N.A.S.T.Y Crew MC Dee Double E. "It means ‘dark.' Just spitting bare anger. I reckon Napa is grimy. They always hold grime back, put it with some R&B, but when grime comes on pure it gets the crowd shock." The whole island is a powder keg waiting to go off. Most of the Grime kids are going to be living in cheap-ass, self-catering, package-holiday accommodations, where the food tastes worse than the supermarket shit in the East London ghetto. They're also going to be deprived of sleep thanks to the constant, unforgiving sound of 10,000-miles-an-hour music battering their brains all day and night for four weeks. MC Dee Double continues, "The food in Ayia tastes fucked up. The clubs are all tight. The police are a bit crazy out there. I was on my moped and the police was following me, shouting bare [ed.: "bare" means "a lot"] shit at me. They tried to get me to the police station, but I got away. There's going to be random trouble everywhere next time we go." "Grime brings out the anger in MCs," said N.A.S.T.Y Crew MC Ghetto when Vice spoke to him and rhyming partner Kano recently. "In Napa, everyone is drunk" deadpanned Kano. "Everyone's having a good time, traveling round in cars or on their mopeds. There's always trouble. One of my friend's friends got stabbed and they had to extend their tickets. This year there'll be N.A.S.T.Y Crew, East Connection, Roll Deep. I would like to see Eskimo [Wiley's rave] out there. A lot of kids in England can't get to Eski in London, but in Napa you'll have people from Manchester, Cardiff, Leeds, Luton, everywhere. It's mad, cuz they can't get our records or hear us on radio, but they all come down to Napa." Shit. We feel a little bad writing all this stuff down, because we don't want to be harbingers of doom or see the Grime kidssome of whom have written stuff for us and played our parties and helped us outstabbed or shot or fucked up in any way at all, but everybody we spoke to about this year's Napa seemed to say the same thing. Like UK garage bible RWD and their writer Rosa Ahmed said: "Grime music creates a tension in the clubs because you can't really dance to it." "It creates a different kind of mood than the garage music that Ayia Napa is used to," she told us over the phone. "Grime makes you want to punch somebody in the face, or else just sit in a corner and smoke weed and get paranoid. The old Ayia Napa crew was the Artful Dodger brigade, where all they sang about was girls and stuff, but grimy lyrics is all about violence and keeping it raw and angry. The kids are 21 and 22, and it's always tense at those raves." We then proposed to Rosa that if all the rival gangs on mopeds are racing down to the beach and staingy out all night dancing and getting tense, Ayia Napa 'O4 will basically be the black sequel to Quadrophenia, only twice as intense and potentially culturally relevant to Britaini.e., it could signal the start of a new musical movement as invigorating to bored working-class Brits as ska, punk, or two-tone was. "What's Quadroplegia?" she replied. "I've never heard of it." ANDY CAPPER |
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