Q&A: Eva Kruse

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Sustainability Week

Q&A: Eva Kruse

Eva Kruse is the chief executive officer of both the Danish Fashion Institute and Copenhagen Fashion Week. We spoke with her about sustainable fashion, since she is a pioneer in the subject.

VICE: Why does fashion play such a pivotal role in our world today?
Eva Kruse: Because fashion is probably the most powerful industry in the world. Although I love the clothes and I love the creative minds, the ambitious people and the rapid pace of the industry, above all, what I love the most is the power of fashion. Fashion has a reach beyond any other, influencing us consciously and subconsciously. It makes us love, desire, excite, reject, and change. Over and over again.

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Why do you feel fashion should think about sustainability?
Besides being an extremely powerful communication tool, fashion is also one of the world's largest industries and one of the most resource-intensive when it comes to the use of energy, raw materials, pesticides, chemicals, water, and manual labour. With such influence comes a responsibility to generate new business models and to apply the creative and innovative forces of the industry to bring about a transformation toward greater sustainability. I believe that we as an industry and as people have an obligation to think about sustainability, to care about the impact we have.

How do you think fashion impacts on the planet?
The world is facing serious climate change and other severe issues affecting our habitat, influencing both animal and human life. The global fashion industry has an immense impact on the environment and on the millions of people who work in the industry, making it one of the most important industries worldwide. This is especially since it also holds a tremendous capacity to spark change that could potentially influence the lives of millions and have a monumental effect on our planet.

In your opinion, how can the fashion industry become more sustainable?
There are so many things that the industry can do to become more sustainable, and as a powerful industry we must set a good example for consumers and lead the way. Concepts like circular economy, recycling, reuse, new materials, longevity in design, and lasting quality are among the innovative drivers for new business models that can lead to innovation, great products, and stronger businesses while also minimising the impact on people and our planet.

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What made you care about the impact this industry was having?
I think we, as an industry and as consumers, have an obligation to do something. We have to make it "the new black" to become sustainable. We have to take better care of the planet for the sake of the generations to come. To me, it just made sense on a personal level to begin working with sustainability in the fashion industry. It made sense to pitch in and at least try to spark a change.

Scandinavia is a front runner in regard to looking at waste as a resource rather than a nuisance. Are there any initiatives you could highlight as a best practice in your country?
There are several Danish companies that have great approaches to sustainability and that are worth mentioning. The three below are clear examples that there are many different ways to think of a circular fashion industry.

  1. Vigga offers organic children's clothing by subscription. As your child grows older, you exchange the set of organic basics for a bigger size. A simple and circular business model.

  1. Resecond is all about the sharing economy. It is a shop where members subscribe for clothes but they have to donate some before they can rent or keep some.

  1. The children's brand Name It has launched a recycling system where old and worn clothes are brought into stores and reused or remade into new products.

Thinking of the fashion industry as circular excites me. Not only would it be much better for people and the planet, but there is also a promising and economic incentive in this line of thinking. Research shows that we are globally missing out on values of $80 billion to $120 billion annually due to untapped potential in a circular plastic economy. I believe there lies similar, or maybe even more, unexploited potential in a circular fashion economy focused on fibers. A few industry players have started but have yet to realize the full economic potential in my view.

With increased global connectivity, how do you think we can catalyze real change in the industry?
Every second year, the Danish Fashion Institute and the Nordic Fashion Association host the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, a landmark event aiming to push the sustainability agenda and accelerate change in a challenged industry. The 2016 summit marks the fourth instalment of the event, and with the momentum we have experienced this time around, I truly believe that we have started a movement. It's about taking small steps at a time, but more and more people are joining in on the discussion, and even small steps count.

This is what drives me and my team to work hard at organizing the summit —the belief that we can actually make a change.

This article was paid for by Copenhagen Fashion Summit and was created independently from VICE's editorial staff.