Global Trend Report '08 - Milan

The cute arty girls in Milan have gone back to a less-is-more look after last year’s disastrous flirtation with all that is neon. Bright colors are now used sparingly and to great success, like a perfectly pink little jacket over a “Comme des Fuck Down” t-shirt. If you’ve got the gams for it, shiny black leggings à la Sandy from the end of

Grease

look pretty hot with heels. Cheap plastic beaded necklaces are a last vestige of new-rave style but, paired with such a clever ensemble, become like sprinkles on the delicious ice cream cone of fashion.

We’re also starting to see some adorably elfin librarian types. Floral patterns abound, especially on vintage scarves—and extra style kudos go to those with a vintage Fendi or Hermés stamp on them. Please note that scarves should not be worn as a hippie accoutrement, but rather in the way that they are worn by rich old ladies or female characters in Wes Anderson movies. The color palette for all other layers (which generally include a vintage dress, a cardigan, and a vintage Chloè jacket) goes from beige to dark green, encompassing all the possible variations on brown.

Interestingly, many female fashion stylists have started wearing seriously baggy jeans with the cuffs rolled up high, bringing to mind TLC and Calvin Klein ads circa 1994, and it is probably a result of a backlash to the skinny-jeans tyranny. In keeping with the return of the early-90s theme, the most advanced models can be seen wearing low-top Doc Martens.

Girls in Milan are a million miles ahead of the fashion curve, but boys seem to be lagging a bit behind. Those who stick with a tried-and-true preppy look consisting of horn-rims, cords, and solid-color cashmere sweaters (maybe with leather elbow patches) are on solid ground, but what to do with Milan’s ubiquitous gay stylists? Like an army of young Karl Lagerfelds, they saunter through town in sunglasses and leather half-gloves (sometimes just one!) like they own the night. Maybe they do! At times they can be mistaken for straight men since most of them have facial hair (as does most everyone in Milan), but usually they have an extremely oversize black scarf around their necks, which may as well be a giant rainbow flag.

The Milanese post-skater is converging with the fixed-gear-bike look—thus the rolled-up pant leg. They might or might not actually own a bike, but they do their best to try and look like it. In an effort to keep looking youthful and athletic, these guys are possibly the only ones in Milan who don’t sport any facial hair.

Photos: Serena Pezzato and Lele Saveri; text: Tim Small and Claire MacDonald; models: Agnes, Anna, Chiara, David, Giovanni, and Tommaso