FYI.

This story is over 5 years old.

Vice Blog

HARAJUKU TAKES SWEDEN

Before you frown and go, "Lolitas? Really?" I'm well aware of the amount of times the movement's been covered ever since it was still kind of a novelty. Years after trend spotters went on pilgrimages to the streets of Tokyo, going into raptures about sailor-suited gangsters, Pippi Longstocking look-alikes, teens sporting hamster costumes, and, of course, Victorian and Rococo inspired porcelain-doll-girls—the Swedes have finally caught on. To my great discomfort, cuteness is officially wearable.

Advertisement

It dawned on me the other week as I was walking past the Japanese vintage shop, Tokyo Stop, in Stockholm. Suddenly, I was facing what looked like hundreds of caramelized Gretels.

It was a bit of a shock as I'd been hoping the whole trend of tea party blogging, cupcake decorating, ribbons and macarons would blow over. But, looking at all these porcelain dolls, it seems obvious that the reign of cute isn't about to end.

A goth-looking girl wearing a knee-length black crinoline dress, ribbon stockings and a black straw bonnet stepped out of the shop, introduced herself as Maria and welcomed me to her popular Lolita market. She explained that the Lolita scene has hundreds and hundreds of followers in Sweden, but that, unfortunately, the "must-have" Lolita labels, (who are all called some combination of the words: pink, milk, pretty, angel, baby, or star) think Sweden's some place near the North Pole with polar bears on the streets and therefore not worth paying attention to.

As with most fashions, being a Lolita is all about wearing the right brands, so it's near impossible for Swedes to follow the set Lolita standards. Instead, Maria and her Lolita friends made up their own rules and started the Swedish Lolita forum, where the older Lolitas teach newbies how to dress. Some girls work a whole summer only to save up for a single, exceptionally pricey, Japanese pastry dress. Seeing how much they're starving for it, I finally surrendered and indulged in cupcakes and chitchats over pink sodas.

Advertisement

Maria Sjöberg, 27, Lolita organizer

How come you're a Lolita?

Maria:

I guess it started when I didn't want to dress in jeans like the popular kids anymore. It was that cliché, "I'm not like you," kind of thing. I wanted to be different. And, to be frank, I tested a hundred of different styles, like goth, rave, and rainbow hippie before getting into Lolita. Now all my needs are fulfilled. Being a Lolita is so stimulating I never feel the need to paint or make music anymore.

Really? That doesn't sound too good.
Well, the style itself is so creative and playful it fills my artistic needs. Besides, everyday is a social experiment when you wear Lolita clothes. I like to provoke people, and extravagant clothes can really be a trigger.

Right. You were telling me before that your take on Lolita is different from the Japanese Lolitas. How?
In Japan, it's only about fashion. There, people are so obsessed with showing they belong that you can't even mix brands. And hardly anyone's dressed in Lolita all the time. Wearing Lolita as a lifestyle is a western phenomenon. Even though there are lots of castle and pastry romanticizing, I think what it all comes down to is the love for the style and Lolita silhouette.

What are the nuts and bolts of Lolita style and silhouette?
I usually tell kids who want in, to buy a cheap second hand dress to begin with. It's better to spend money on a Japanese dress than on blouses, socks, cardigans, and shoes. You can always find that stuff at H&M or vintage. The most important for the silhouette is finding the perfect petticoat. It's a constant dilemma. Either it's too fluffy or has the wrong shape. I recommend studying the style and looking at pictures. And remember, we've all been noobs at some point--so don't feel bad about looking like shit in the beginning.

Advertisement

Are there any Lotita DOs and DON'Ts to consider?
The smaller the dress, the more expensive and less accessible it gets, so being able to fit into any Japanese brand's dress is the ultimate DO. Whereas smoking, farting, burping and boozing are total taboos. Personally, I don't give a shit, though.

What else have you got on?
A dress and hat from Innocent World, a ring from Jane Marple, and Din Sko shoes.

Sara, 22

Is that the rabbit from Alice In Wonderland on your dress?
Sara: Yes! And spoons from that tea party he's rushing to attend. It's an Emelie Temple Cute dress. My bag is from Innocent World, shoes from Din Sko, an Emelie Temple Cute necklace, and bracelets from Milk.

Where do you get ahold of all these Japanese brands?
I buy almost all my clothes from Japanese online auctions, but I also mix them up with some regular brands and vintage.

Are you always dressed up like this?
Haha, yep! This is me.

Josephine, 21

Hi, you almost look like a baby.
Josephine: I'm wearing a headdress from Jesus Diamante, a blouse from Baby, The Stars Shine Bright, Angelic Pretty Jewelery, and a bag from Milk.

Those are quite exclusive brands. Are you dressed like this all the time?
Yes. I've been dressing as a so-called Sweet Lolita since I was about 11, both to school and to work.

How can you afford all these expensive clothes?
Well, I'm constantly broke since I spend all my money on Lolita fashion. But I prefer shopping to partying.

Advertisement

Amanda, 19

What's with your hairdo? Is it a reference to some manga or anime character?
Amanda: Not really. It's just a bun with a ribbon. Sweet and simple.

OK. What would you call your style?
Well, I used to wear pretty hardcore Lolita clothes with petticoats and all that, but now I'm just mixing stuff.

What's in today's mix?
A dress from Gina Tricot, Vivienne Westwood jewellery, and the rest is vintage.

Nadine, 15

What kind of Lolita are you?
Nadine: I call my style a mix between Sweet and Classic Lolita. My dress is from Innocent World, the shoes are from Baby, and my locket is a spare key I found in Paris.

What's that pattern on your dress?
It's Snow White and the seven dwarfs.

How did you get into Lolita?
About four years ago I started listening to a band called An Cafe, and started digging into Japanese popular culture and brands. Then I eventually became a Lolita.

WIM WIKLUND