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Vice Blog

POP VOX - WHAT'S UP WITH BLACK HAIR?

My friend Desiree from Cameroon doesn't straighten her hair like the majority of Paris's black girls do. She says this is on account of her being an "all out there nigga," but that doesn't stop the other black girls from making disparaging comments about her afro. Those girls' amazing hairstyles come courtesy of chemical-heavy hair straightening techniques, which assault and damage the hair, wigs, braiding, and extensions. This all means spending hours in the salon, having to avoid rain or swimming pools like the plague and allowing a lot of time for cosmetics and hair maintenance. It all costs too, with girls in low-income neighborhoods paying up to 500 euros a month. Desiree tells me as a kid she wanted to have long straight Barbie hair, but nowadays she thinks black girls should be proud of their hair instead of having it straightened and bleached, but as mentioned, she's an all-out-there nigga, so we asked Paris's black chicks what they thought.

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Amy, 19 Vice: Do you change your hair often? Amy:

If only you knew! I've had this style since Saturday.

What's the longest you've stuck with the same hairstyle?

One month maximum.

What's the usual process?

When I take my old hair out, I leave it for a week before I do it again, just to give it some air. Then, I get the new style done.

What do you think of your hair in its natural state?

In one word? Horrible.

Assetou, 18 Vice: How long have you had your current hairstyle? Assetou:

It's been about three weeks. But in a week I'll change it. My bosses at the salon like me to change hairstyles regularly. That way, if the clients like it, they will ask us for the same style.

How often do you change your hairstyle?

Every month. Once you take away the weave, you can only leave the hair in its natural state for two or three days. Otherwise, it damages the hair.

OK. But why change your hair every month?

We blacks, we like to change our hair fairly regularly. It's our thing. That's how you get to stand out.

H'ya, 31 Vice: How much time do you spend on your hair, per month say? H'YA:

Five to six hours in total: which is a lot of time to spend at the hairdresser, and then a little every morning. This is because at the moment, I've got curls. So morning styling is easily dealt with! A little water and it's good. But when I've got straight hair, I spend like an hour a day.

Do you ever straighten your hair?

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Yes, I used to all the time. But right now I'm liking African hair again. It's just like fashion, I think. Especially since the arrival of the Dr. Miracle products, I don't always have to have my hair completely straightened. I feel much better.

What was annoying with straight hair before?

It was too much work. After a week or two, it becomes frizzy and loses it's volume. It's tiring to have to put cream in your hair every day. And besides, it stains the sheets.

Overall is changing your hairstyle on a monthly basis an advantage or disadvantage?

I love changing my look. Especially for my husband! He gets a new wife every month. A while back I had the massive huge Brazilian hair, it's super fashionable right now. Then it got hot, so I wanted shorter hair.

Do you think that straightening hair is denying your African origins?

Even when my hair is smooth, I'm still black. When I have Brazilian hair I'm not going to feel Brazilian, and when it's smoother I don't feel Asian. I just have the ability to change my hair when I want. My European girlfriends tell me I'm lucky. If I bleached my skin, then yes, it would be another debate. But hair is nothing.

Tene, 28 Vice: How much time do you spend on your hair, per month say? Tene:

I would say I spend a whole weekend a month on it. The average African girl probably spends four hours per month at the hairdresser. I'd say black girls are obsessed with hair products. Frankly, it's the only thing people think about.

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That must cost a lot.

It can cost anywhere between 50 to 700 euros. Here at the shop, I see girls who easily spend 500 euros in one go on a wig, their hair cut and false braids.

What do you think of your hair in its natural state?

I think it's less feminine.

Founé, 15 Vice: How do you like your hair? Foune:

I like it but it's not the same as Beyonce's.

You want Beyonce's hair?

Definitely I wish I had her hair.

Do you like your natural hair?

Not really. Later I will try to marry a white guy. That way, my daughter will have cool hair for sure.

Rokia, 11 Vice: How is your hair in its natural state? Rokia:

Not nice.

How is it?

Afro.

What sort of hair do you have in your dreams?

Asian girl hair like yours.

Why not leave your hair in its natural state?

Because it will break before it gets long enough.

It's funny. I would like to have wavy or Afro hair, like you. We should swap.

It would but it's not possible.

Lucia, 18 Vice: What went into your haircut. Lucia:

It's cut very short just down to my natural hair. Then bleached three times before being dyed. Black hair is hard to dye blonde.

You're happy with your hair now?

I tried many cuts before. But I really like this. I don't know if you've noticed, but the fashion in black hair at the moment is short. People keep the hair black, or dye it Auburn. I wanted to be original, so I dyed it blonde.

You ever wanted to leave your hair in its natural state?

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No! Naturally my hair wouldn't grow below my chin, and then be all frizzy and damaged.

What do you mean not grow that far?

It has to be relaxed. Without the product, it won't grow. But I can add a weave. It takes half a day. Or braids - but that takes a whole day. That's why the hair salons are always crowded. You have to queue for several hours before they can see you. For a nigga going to the hairdresser is like going to the bakery for a white guy.

Myriam, 19 Vice: You just left the hair salon now, right? Myriam:

Yeah, I just had my haircut.

What's it called?

Scales. I'll keep it for three weeks and in a month you will not recognize me.

What's your hair look like in its natural state?

A kinky Afro, it's disgusting.

You don't like natural black hair much then?

No I like being able to change my hair every 3 or 4 weeks. But when I was little, my mother used a volumizing product on my hair that really burned. It caused a lot of damage, I had holes in my hair, but with this style it doesn't show.

Lucrece, 19 Vice: That guy just whistled at you Lucrece:

The dogs are out today.

Yeah. Tell me about your haircut.

I had my hairdressor shave the sides, before he added the extensions.

You get told you've got a Rhianna thing going on a lot- right?

Thank you!

Does taking care of your hair take up a lot of your time?

I get my hair done three times a week. But it doesn't bother me. Hair is my style.

Latita, 21 Vice: If you spin around, I bet your hair would twirl around just like in an advert, I'm sure. Laetita:

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My hair is too heavy to fly around.

How do you take care of your hair?

I put oil on it every night and then rinse it off in the morning before going to college.

Do you spend a lot on hair products?

I work at my mom's salon, so it's free. Otherwise, it would be quite expensive.

Why you don't you keep your hair in its natural state?

Because it's so kinky, so much shorter, less sexy and less feminine. Perhaps when I'm older I'll change my mind. There are a lot of black grandmothers who shave their hair, stop going to the hairdresser and just wear wigs.

Like a hair menopause?

That expression is sort of disgusting, but yeah. ÉMILIE NGUYEN