Pop into any urban health food lunch joint or bachelorette brunch, and you’ll inevitably find at least one guest who is borderline frightened at the sight of a loaf of bread. We have reached peak gluten hysteria.

But the good news is that what goes up must come down. And when bread rises again, we’ll be waiting—ready to house an entire baguette and anything contained between its halves.

How about a party of tempura-fried shrimp, spicy sriracha-lime mayo, and crunchy celery, onions, and lettuce? Now that sounds like perfection.

At least, that’s what LA’s Commissary, by way of New Orleans’ esteemed sandwich and seafood tradition, seems to think.

We know why they’re called po’ boys, but who wouldn’t want to be shrimp-rich?