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Vice Blog

AMANDA WATKINS LOVES THE CHOLOMBIANS

Amanda Watkins is a photographer and fashion designer from England who lives in Monterrey, Mexico. She has been documenting the Cholombians for years, and her photos of them were featured in our Vice Guide to Monterrey. She helped us with our recent story on the Cholombians in the Fashion issue, as well as the Picture Perfect episode with Stefan Ruiz. We asked her to send us a few photos and tell us about her experiences in Monterrey. This is that.

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For the past four years I have been traveling between London and Monterrey, Mexico following the Cholombians--documenting their style and getting to know their sub-culture. Their style is different from anything I have ever seen in London. From the beginning, I loved the pride they took in their heritage. It was fantastic to see a group of young people wearing traditional clothing, reinterpreted in a modern style. There is nothing inherently abnormal about their t-shirts and shorts, but the religious imagery emblazoned on these garments makes them quintessentially Cholombian. Recently, many Cholombians have moved religion from their shirts to their neck pieces, called escapolarios, which prominently feature Mexican religious icons.

When I first met them, it was immediately obvious how much pride they took in their appearance. Always presented immaculately, they were noticeably fresher looking than anyone else around. White Converses were the preferred footwear. When I first arrived, the style was about having your clothes made with a particularly colorful fabric. I saw bright prints of Virgin de Guadalupe or St.Jude on everyone. They wear escapolarios like textile signs hanging from their necks: hand knotted or woven with their nicknames, neighborhoods, and sometimes pictures. These are considered essential for the look. If they can't get the traditional woven lettering or pictures, there are other options, such as customized, embroidered cotton paisley print scarves.

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It goes without saying that Cholombians style their hair into a huge, gelled statement. Their dramatically long sideburns often reach far past the chin, and are slicked into place with gel or cream. The back of their heads are often shaved to reveal the scalp. The boys are allowed plenty of room for personal variations, and they are not afraid to experiment. However, the look is almost always completed with a cap set to the smallest size and perched neatly atop the head.

Their scene is very much about the music. Going to dance "la rueda" together while local bands perform is a big deal. Much of the music is borrowed from Colombian artists and given a Norteno twist. Couples dance to the music in a style that's old-fashioned yet totally, undeniably cool. Occasionally, the bands will dedicate a song to someone in the crowd. This is the highlight of any Cholombian's night. They bring huge cardboard signs made at home with their shout-out requests emblazoned across, graffiti-style. If they arrive unprepared they improvise with their cell phones.

Since the beginning, Cholombians have been bombarded with negative propaganda from the press, as often happens with subcultures. But now, perhaps because of the many sensitive, important issues going on in Mexico at the moment, many have started to adapt to a new look without their sideburns.

AMANDA WATKINS