Plus, read a recently published George Orwell essay dissing British food.
When Atsushi Tanaka, Hideki Nishi, and Ryuji Teshima flew in from their respective Parisian eateries to cook at London’s The Clove Club, it led to an evening of globally inspired food. And meringue cigars.
Compiling recipes and anecdotes from Michelin-starred restaurants to local cafes and Turkish joints, East London Food by Rosie Birkett celebrates the area’s diverse dining scene.
This tongue-twisting dish from Rochelle Canteen will convert even the most offal averse.
Every day this week, we’ve been sipping, crunching, oyster-shucking, and drunk-ordering our way through the eclectic world of British food.
F. Cooke pie shop in London has been serving homemade pie, mash, and parsley liquor for generations. “Loads of customers still come in a few days a week,” says owner Joseph Cooke. “We have some in their 90s.”
Over-boiled vegetables, deep-fried Mars bars, chips. To figure out what went wrong with Britain’s food rep, we tracked down recent visitors to the UK and asked what they really think of our country’s cuisine.
British food’s plainness is its brilliance. Food that has a giving unctuousness, food that is cooked with love and also gives love—massaging you from the inside out.
I joined Michael Pili, the longest-serving judge of the Seafish Fish and Chip Shop of the Year Award, for a day’s secret inspection of a London chippy. “I go in eyes open, open mind, and record everything,” he tells me.
London has 80 Michelin-starred restaurants, Birmingham five, but Manchester? Zero. Chef Simon Rogan aims to change all that by winning hotel restaurant The French back the star it was stripped of in 2007 with a new kind of fine dining.
Waxy sausages, tinned vegetables, white bread: iconic British artist Martin Parr's photos are the antithesis of your carefully arranged avo on toast shot. We met over steak and chips to ask what he makes of the #foodporn proliferating social media.