I’m in a London restaurant basement and Enrique Olvera is teaching me to prepare a dish fusing fresh tomato and burrata. “We don’t like to plate with too much fuss or stuff,” he explains.
"All of our lives, we've been told that pan de muerto can't be made without eggs, that the yeast cannot be activated properly without milk, and any bread without butter doesn't taste good," say Mariana Blanco and Yisus Pallares. "It's not true."
The people of Guadalajara know what they want in a sandwich. The torta ahogada—a pork-stuffed baguette swamped in so much spicy salsa that it must be eaten with a spoon—is a local hangover cure and a compelling reason to skip church.
Pushing 90, the reigning legendary dame of Mexican cooking calls for an eater’s revolt, and simply doesn’t take any bullshit.