Gudeg May Be Overrated, But It Tastes Like Home to Me

Eating gudeg is almost a pre-requisite for a successful trip to Yogyakarta.

I was born and raised in Yogyakarta, and eating gudeg was something of a ritual. Back when I was a child, gudeg—young, unripe jackfruit served with krecek or other sides—was my breakfast. My mother would buy it at the corner shop and my entire family would eat some to start our day. Some days, gudeg would be served at dinner as well. This tradition didn't really stop until I hit college.

You can find gudeg on almost every corner of every village in Jogja. There are two types: wet and dry. Wet gudeg is more savory, while dry gudeg is a bit on the sweet side. Personally, I'm not the biggest fan of the brown jackfruit variety of dry gudeg. But this is probably just because I don't like vegetables. Usually, I take my gudeg with a side of chicken, egg, and krecek.

But not everyone appreciates the taste.

"Gudeg is too sweet," a friend of mine once said after returning from Jogja. "There are a lot of different food types out there. Why is gudeg so well-liked?"

There's no accounting for taste. Everyone like different things. But watching a gudeg vendor sell food on Jalan Gejayan one recent Friday night shows that this humble dish still has the ability to bring people together, regardless of their income level, background, or ethnicity.

That stall is owned by Ibu Sukijo, who is better known around town as Bu Tekluk. Her stall is called Gudeg Bromo—a Jogja institution since 1984. In a city of gudeg sellers, Ibu Sukijo stands out. Her version comes with a special sauce made from peanuts instead of the usual blondo (thickened coconut milk).

There was already a long line when the stall opened at 11 pm. Most of the customers were college students who lived around Depok, Sleman. The stall stays open all night, offering students a late-night meal that's both affordable and delicious.

"I usually serve around 200 plates per night," said Ibu Sukijo. "And I cook everything with my own two hands. My children can't do it yet. But they still help me sell. [Jalan] Malioboro is too far for these college students. And it's a lot more expensive."

One of Gudeg Bromo's first customers of the night, a man named Friman, said he was drawn to the spot after seeing the long lines.

"That means there's something here," Friman said. "I want to know if it's hype or not. There's a lot of buzz surrounding Gudeg Bromo. It got me curious."

Long lines and internet hype are enough to draw visitors to places like Gudeg Bromo. But for me, the gudeg itself is enough of a draw. Some may see it as a unique local treat, but for Jogja natives, it tastes like home.