Invisible Hand: Ra, Antwerp

RA opened in Antwerp back in 2009. Although it's a smallish Belgian city, admittedly famous as the center of the world's diamond trade, most fashion fans know Antwerp for it's 350-year-old Royal Academy of Fine Arts thanks to the Antwerp Six and other famous academy graduates like Martin Margiela and Bernhard Willhelm. As well as being the most exciting store in one of the world's weirder fashion capitals, Ra go out of their way to stock new young and obscure designers, sometimes even financing the first production run, exhibit weird artists, and throw amazing parties. It's run by Romain Brau and Anna Kushnerova, two designers in their twenties.

VICE: Why did you start Ra?
Romain Brau: We like to think of Ra as a place that represents freedom of expression. The shop was meant as a platform for artists and designers, somewhere they could really express themselves. Me and Anna travel a lot and wanted to showcase the things we've seen. So, for us, the project was just as much about having parties, events, and exhibitions where young creative people can come and feel welcome, as having a beautiful store and selling designer clothing. Even though these kids and fashion fans can't afford to buy anything by Gareth Pugh, they can come hang out, enjoy the space, and feel welcome. Everything was so posh and sleepy in Antwerp before, there was nothing for the crazies and certainly nowhere they could show their work to the world. We also wanted to create a place where something is always happening, if not in the store, then a party or an opening in the gallery space, or maybe a new menu in our restaurant that's been co-designed by an artist we've been showcasing.

You're opening in Paris now too. Do you think the average Parisian is ready for these sort of clothes?
Ha ha, not really, no. The original Ra was meant as a salon or theater where anything could happen, but if we try and replicate that in Paris we'll probably end up with a concept store which just sounds like an an excuse for people to sell socks alongside perfume and macaroons, you know? So, in Paris we’ll only be dealing with fashion. We’ll add a few little surprises on top of that, of course.

There's a section on the site called Heroes. Who are they?
We make sure we profile all the people we work with. That way editors, curators, and stylists, or anyone curious really, can look to our site to as a sort of index of great new talent. Our real heroes are the designers.

So this guy you stock Niels Peeraer, the rational behind his graduate collection was sort of mind of mindblowing.What was all that stuff about a futurist dystopia where the few people that can really see what's going on are enslaved by the aristorcatic class?
Well, you'd have to ask him. Niels is great, he doesn't really have limits and designs all out for beauty, just forgetting everything around him. His clothes really make me dream.

Who else have you helped?
I'd rather the designers decide if we've helped them or not. There have been people like Helena Lumesky, whose first two collections we financed and now she's involved with Mango. Then there's designers like Elise Gettliffe or Narelle Dore, whom we've worked with a lot. With Ra's exhibition program we've also helped labels like House of Matching Colors find their way into places like Opening Ceremony. As long as people really feel and believe the projects they're proposing and are pushing themselves to be as creative as possible, then we'll normally back them.

You mentioned events being super-important earlier.
Sure. Ra is all about fun—life is a party. We've hosted DJs from everywhere, special launches with Bernhard Willhelm, our Valentine's Day love events, art exhibitions, openings, dance nights, projections, the Absolut Gareth Pugh party, Christmas parties, party parties, and exhibitions in Paris and Holland or performances at the Basel art fair…  Life's party might have it's ups and downs, so it's great is to share and support each other. We don't have rules or care about strategy at RA. Learning and discovering is all that matters for us. The world is constantly changing so we don't want to get boring, we like to have a space that can change.

And it's a brilliant way of shaking up Antwerp?
We are fucking their minds and people need that. Enough of everyone being drapped in a black synthetic jersey. Mad English designers are the best.

So Romain, can you explain your own style?
You couldn't really ask a worse question. When I wake up I love to dress in my theme of the moment. Right now I'm into princes—I love feeling like one. I like mixing old and new and can't stand having to wear a set current style or be all on-trend. A lot of gays try to dress to attract or target the right guy, which I find completely ridiculous. I have a very strong character and I like to dress up to that. It's funny, because my business partner Anna is just like me, she might be dress as a mountain farmer one day and a philosophy-obsessed sex symbol the next.

You design too right? How's that fit in with RA?
Ha ha, my private work is my oxygen, I really get to design what I dream of wearing. My own style and designs are French, decadent, and very personal. Only Asian people have contemporary enough minds to understand what I'm trying to do.

What does that even mean?
In Asia everyone is more aware and my sexual identity is not a problem for them. Of course I am generalizing, Bangkok is not the same as Kyoto. Still, nearly all my customers are Asian and they really like fantasy.

Thanks to Leonardo Van Dijl