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Studio: Kit Neale

In this new series, VICE Style will be poking around the studios and workspaces of fashion designers, photographers, and art directors. First up, Kit Neale.
Jamie Clifton
London, GB

Kit sporting some mounted human teeth he picked up at a Philadelphia flea market.

Everyone's forever asking designers about what specifically influenced their current collection, where they drew their inspiration from, or which particular seventeenth dynasty Egyptian prince played a part in the shaping of their new shoe design, and the designers usually play along with it, unless they're completely antisocial bastards. Thing is, photos are generally better than words when it comes to picturing the groundbreakingly mind-blowing stuff that's going to make your bum look sexy next season, so in this new series we'll be in the studios and workspaces of fashion designers, photographers and art directors. It will be a bit like Cribs, but with less Cristal and bathing R&B monstrosities.

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First up is Kit Neale, the designer responsible for putting guys in allotment-inspired all-over print outfits last fashion week. Kit's studio is in an industrial block near Kingsland High Street in Dalston, home to a ridiculous amount of chicken shops and a store that sells a massively debatable "authentic collection of Moschino, Ralph Lauren and Versace".

"Next season is all about the British seaside, mixed with boys on mopeds – kind of like that whole Brighton mod thing, but brought into the 21st century. This guy on the scooter is my muse for all of that. He looks like a right Bermondsey scallywag, the sort of guy who would give me abuse if I went to a Millwall game, or something."

"I have a bit of an obsession with vintage photographs and these are just a couple I decided to frame. The thought of pensioners spanking other pensioners was a bit more exciting than all the old, ghostly pictures of kids in the same box of prints."

"The American fixation with the Obamas is completely insane, you can get literally anything with Obama's face printed on it. This clock with Martin Luther King watching over him makes a suitably creepy fixture for the wall."

Arena Homme Plus, Blitz Magazine, and early issues of The Face are great when it's time to think of ideas. I'm absolutely obsessed with Ray Petri and that whole Buffalo era. The Buffalo, ragga-boy, "don't give a fuck" attitude is something I always try to bring across through in my work, so yeah, it's always back to Petri's stuff for inspiration every season."

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It's at this point that we talk about the huge photo print of various cans and bottles containing beer, shaving foam, fizzy drinks and spirits, each placed next to an erect phallus for easy size comparison. The absolutely not-safe-for-work-in-any-way image can be found here. Obviously, Kit then makes spurious claims to not having a clue what it's about and having just obtained it yesterday, adding, "I suppose it kind of applies to my work because I don't like to take fashion too seriously and fashion can get a bit too serious at times. I'd like to work out a print, but I'm not sure how well a print full of cocks would go down."

"My prints always come from finding really obscure, weird stuff. For the new collection there's a print involving sea life, so I went to a charity shop in Margate and bought all these books about fish. This book's called Infantry Uniforms. I was going to do a toy soldier camouflage print where it looked like camo from a distance, but turned out to be loads of toy soldiers as you got closer, but that didn't work out. The book is amazing, though."

"Another print I'm working on is based on planes – I have tattoos of planes – which meant going out and picking up vintage plane models for reference."

"These torso-less legs were bought in San Francisco. I remember flying back to New York and not having enough money to up my luggage allowance, so I was left walking round the airport with two legs sticking out of my hand baggage, which probably looked a bit dodgy. They're great, though. If we ever open a shop, they will definitely be going in there."

"I'm always trying to create a real sense of Britishness through the clothes. This Paris jacket is great at that. Obviously it's not British at all, but it communicates a sense of place really well, which is exactly what I'm trying to do. The most British things in the studio are probably the collection of monarchy mugs, but don't worry, it doesn't mean I'm a monarchist or anything, I just like that tatty, British aesthetic."