gastronomie française
Why the French Can't Get Enough of This Illegal Bird
Hunters consider the ortolan the king of all wildfowl; great chefs call it the caviar of birds—and for 25 years it's been at the center of controversy.
Advertisement
Hunters consider the ortolan the king of all wildfowl; great chefs call it the caviar of birds—and for 25 years it's been at the center of controversy.