Of all the perennially popular foods to constantly reinvent itself—or be subjected to relentless reinvention—ice cream is, perhaps, the most versatile. There’s soft serve and fro-yo; there are ice cream sandwiches constructed of macarons, doughnuts, croissants and more; and then there’s love-it-or-hate-it savory ice cream, available in flavors ranging from garlic to Jersey pork roll.
An inveterate ice cream lover, I’ve never been a fan of the latter category. My experience was tainted early on, when, having already indulged in every single chocolate flavor available at my local scoop shop Peter’s Ice Cream (RIP), I unthinkingly ordered a cone of Guinness Chocolate. The ice cream tasted exactly like stout. I was nine. I was scarred for life.
So I don’t imagine that I would be a fan of the rather out-there ice cream creation featured in a video posted by El Diario Mexicano over the weekend. Literally a fully dressed al pastor taco is placed on an anti-griddle and surrounded with a sweet ice cream base. Then, in the style of the Taiwanese rolled ice cream that peaked in trendiness a few years ago, the taco is chopped up into the ice cream, sprinkled with Tajín chile seasoning, and rolled up into curls of “dessert.” Now, I can get behind the classic union of salty and sweet, but this is may be taking things way, way too far.
The short article accompanying the video doesn’t make it clear where this bastardized creation is being served, citing only “Mexico” as the location. But countrywide, people are freaking out about it. A Facebook post shared by the Latin American cultural organization Cultura Colectiva has been viewed more than 1.4 million times and has garnered more than 7,300 comments, like this one from Juan C HR: “This is the universal ‘millennial’ goal. To ruin everything that people love.”
Guillermina Sánchez concurs, adding, “Food, like sex, is something completely natural, but then sick-minded people come along and do these types of things.”
Fuck a border wall, but let’s hope this monstrosity never casts its dark, dark shadow on US soil.