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Food

Baking Isn’t Cool Anymore

According to new figures from market analysts, UK sales of baking ingredients are falling. Is the cupcake finally dead?
Photo via Jeff E.

Even though you scorn at red velvet cupcakes and make snide comments about The Great British Bake Off, you still probably slipped into Lakeland circa 2011 for a loaf tin and mixing bowl with dreams of baking sourdough fresh every morning or making a "showstopper" Victoria sponge.

Let's be honest, the bicarb and vanilla essence have found their way to the back of the cupboard and after killing your starter for the third time in a row, Hovis Best of Both is back in the bread bin. Don't worry, you're not the only one. According to new research from market analysts Kantar Worldpanel, even the die-hard baking fanatics have hung up their "Keep Calm and Bake On" aprons.

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A report released last week showed that over the last year, sales of baking ingredients sold in supermarkets have dropped by 3.8 percent. That's equivalent to Brits spending £26.8 million less on icing sugar, dried fruit, edible decorations, and bread mixes compared to the year before. Despite a steady rise in the sale of baking ingredients since 2007, Kantar found a decline across all major baking brands like Jus-Rol, Silver Spoon, and Homepride. Dr Oetker, purveyor of Ristorante pizzas and also "Pud in a Mug" mixes, was the only company to report increased sales.

While mug cakes are one thing that apparently just won't die, does the Kantar research show that Brits don't care about baking anymore? Was Bake Off moving to Channel 4 the final straw? To find out whether the UK's baking obsession has really developed a soggy bottom (sorry, not sorry), we asked some of our favourite bakers whether they think baking is still—or ever was, for that matter—cool.

Lily Jones of East London's Lily Vanilli Bakery .
"The short answer is yes, baking is still cool AF. I think the home baking aisle needs a boost. Standards of baking in this country have dramatically increased and we need to see some of the creativity and innovation we see in the industry at large, and on Instagram, reflected in what you can buy to help you bake at home. There's too big of a gap."

Matthew Jones, founder of Bread Ahead Bakery , with various shops and baking schools around London.
"We haven't noticed a slump in courses. Although prices of some ingredients are going up at the moment, a loaf of bread will always remain a staple and that is what we are all about—teaching people how to make bread, and hopefully enjoy it."

Roy Levy, head baker at GAIL's Bakery , with various locations around London.
"Baking is definitely not less popular, but people are becoming more interested in baking from scratch, and buying from bakers who bake from scratch. We still receive lots of enquiries for baking tips and recipes that definitely show our customers' keen interest in baking."

Lesley Ward, development chef and owner of Horsham Gingerbread Bakehouse in West Sussex.
"First of all, I wouldn't describe a 3.8 percent drop in purchases of baking goods as a 'slump.' A 38 percent fall would be a slump, but a reduction of 3.8 percent in sales isn't very much. Also, people could be buying as much in volume, but spending less by buying unbranded products. For example, I find that there is a huge difference in flavours of different unrefined sugars, and consider that two well known brands are worth paying the extra money for because their products have really intense flavours. But when it comes to plain flour, I'm happy to buy the cheapest one. Maybe people are becoming more knowledgeable about where to save money?

Home baking will always remain popular, as each generation discovers how creative and joyful an occupation it is. Once you have filled the house with the smell of baking there is no going back!"