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Theophilus London On The Merits of Leather Leggings And Hanging Out With Karl Lagerfeld

We snuck into his video shoot for new tune, “Rio.” You can watch it here, plus find out what’s going on under Theophilus’ hat.

Do you remember when you first heard “Humdrum Town”? No? Me neither, because it’s been four years, which is the cat equivalent of 35 years ago. I don’t remember the first time, but I do like to play it at least once a week, on headphones, loudly, preferably while stomping down the street. It makes overcast days seem glamorously gloomy. It still stands up. Between back then and now, Theophilus released his debut album, Timez Are Weird These Days, which is equally awesome. Not least because its got “Flying Overseas”, featuring Dev Hynes and Solange, which sounds like the kaleidoscopic Caribbean flipside to “Humdrum Town.”

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Currently the 26-year-old singer is in the middle of polishing off his follow-up record—in Paris, no less—and I recently crashed his video shoot for new single “Rio.” Shot at The Jane Hotel and Milk Studios in New York, “Rio” contains a bunch of fans as extras who were sourced via Twitter and Instagram, and told to dress to a Great Gatsby-meets-modern day theme. The song meanwhile, features the Menahan Street Band, who count members of Antibalas, Budos Band, and Sharon Jones & The Dap-Kings in their numbers. (Jay-Z also sampled their “Make The Road By Walking” on “Roc Boys”.) It’s still got the shimmery synths Theophilus likes to sprinkle here and there, but the brass and palm-slapped drums are totally reminiscent of Curtis Mayfield circa “Supafly,” with a side order of Terence Trent D’Arby.

What’s the vibe for this song?
Theophilus London: I went to Brazil in 2010, to play a festival with Erykah Badu and Femi Kuti and I stayed there for three weeks and had the time of my life. I was scared, I was happy, I was sick, I was aroused, I was erotic. So when I came back home I wanted to make a story about it. I wrote this song called "Rio" with a band and recorded it old school—live to tape. When I see “performed by Marvin Gaye” in the liner notes, it’s because they really performed. No Pro Tools, which is all stop-start. I had to perform my vocal for three to four minutes and if I didn’t do it perfectly, I’d have to rewind the tape and do it again. I just wanted to make organic music, I wanted to stay away from this big hip hop trap stuff that’s going on in the city. I wanted to bring a different vibe to the summer.

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And how does the video play into this?
The video is a twist between modern and retro, I wanted to have this girl—she’s a friend of mine from Nigeria—this beautiful, black sexy girl with attitude, and I wanted her to be the center. I was creeping hard for her through the video and the speakeasy turns crazy and my music is playing downstairs. I also wanted to introduce me performing with a band. I’m a frontman this year. I’ve got some new moves.

You’ve done a bunch of collaborations with fashion houses over the past few years…
I wouldn’t say fashion houses; I would say brands. Fashion houses respect me, they love me, they want me to wear their clothes. I work with Chanel a lot. When I met Karl [Lagerfeld], we were intrigued by each other. He was very intrigued by my silhouette and to meet him was like meeting Michael Jackson to me. Every time he walks in the room he has this presence and he’s walking so slow and graceful. He always makes an entrance. It’s almost like he’s Shawn or The Undertaker coming out to do a fight. I was scared. Over eight months we kept working together. I show him respect and now I can go to Chanel anytime I want and just chill where Coco Chanel worked. I’ve visited her apartment maybe four times. They really take care of me.

Following you on Instagram, it seems like you’re in a new city every week.
Pretty much. I have OCD in a way. I really pray to be places and pray to not be on my couch.

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Theophilus' latest collaboration with Surface to Air.

What have you been working on fashion-wise?
I just did a flight jacket for Surface to Air. My label is LVRS and we have this theme, it’s called the Lovers Space Program. When you perform, you should have a uniform, like Michael Jackson. I don’t wanna see people looking like the Fresh Prince on my set, with everyone in different colors. It looks like throw-up. I want it to be cohesive.

So for you the visual is as important as the music?
As important! But it’s also about the attitude and the state of mind at the time. The clothes help get you in that state of mind.

I like that you stick patches all over your jean jackets.
I like to customize everything I wear. I forget a lot of things. Like what happened in my life last week. I definitely forgot about last year. It sucks because when I get older, it’s going to be really bad. My jacket helps me document stuff. I pick up pins in different places. Here is Paris and Amsterdam, and here I broke up with a girl [points to a broken heart patch]. I put it on my jacket and wear it on my sleeve and it reminds me of where I’ve been and where I’m from. I have like 20 jackets that I’ve customized.

There aren’t many men who raid thrift stores for gold jewelry.
I love jewelry and gold and my friend Genevieve Jones makes great jewelry. I buy a lot of rings myself. This cost €3, but looks really good. I want to express myself. This jacket was blue, I dyed it black: that’s how far I’m going to express myself. I have a seamstress in Long Island who makes me leather pants for the shows. I have cobalt blue leather pants, all white ones, burgundy.

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Sounds kind of sweaty.
Not the ones I make! I’m cool. Sometimes I even wear leather leggings under my jeans just to make my pants a little bit tighter and I’m still cool.

What’s going on under your hat? I don’t think I’ve ever seen your hair.
I’m really focused on building a brand and look. I think the ultimate stylish person can look the same every day. Different swagger, different style, but they look the same everyday. I used to wear glasses and a hat everywhere. Now I’m comfortable taking my eyes off.

Why?
I had personal reasons. I didn’t want people to see my eyes when I’m performing because I’m super nervous sometimes. I do the whole show for an hour with my eyes closed, but I know the stage. With regards to my hat, I like geometric shapes and silhouettes. I have 69 hats. I pick up three or five every three days. Eventually I will show my hair, in two or three years on my album cover, but it has to be exclusive. Like, “Oh my God! That’s the first time his hat is off!”

Show me.
My hair is fine. It’s only for girls to see. [Takes off his hat. It’s closely shaved.]

Are you still heartbroken or have you recovered?
I’ve recovered. I met this amazing girl, she’s smart, she’s from Paris by way of Cameroon. We’re teaching each other so many things.

What’s the most surreal thing that’s happened to you recently?
I spent 13 hours with Kanye West. I can’t really tell you what we did but it was full on, all day, it was amazing. He’s so smart and to see how he handles his things is great.

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What’s up with the new record?
It’s about 60% done and it’ll be coming out in the fall. It’s soulful, it has a very African-Congo type of style to it—the bass and the rhythms and the dance. I’m a frontman and I’m excited to tell new stories I haven’t told before. My life has changed. I’m on a yacht having brunch with the Princess of Monaco, and I want to talk about all this stuff—like what Karl teaches me! What I’m going to put out sounds nothing like no one else. I’m just going to put out some sexy moments. I can’t wait.

L-R: Vanessa S. Williams, Steven C. Santos, Tiffany M. Rouge.

Here are three extras I fell in love with at the shoot. Apart from the fringed sequin dress, they’re totally not doing the Gatsby thing, but who cares? They look so good.

Theophilus suggested we do a prom-style shot. Although one of my friends said he looks like a human backpack.

Kim is still dubious about the leather leggings situation, but she's really stoked about Theophilus as a either a prom date or a human backpack. She’s on Twitter - @theKTB.

Style Stage is an ongoing partnership between Noisey & Garnier Fructis celebrating music, hair, and style.