Mark Ogus
Inside the Jewish Deli Where Challah Comes with a Side of History
“Jewish food is my childhood,” says Mark Ogus of Monty’s Deli in East London. “It means food that carries a historical weight. Every time we make challah or salt beef and it’s made by hand, it’s a continuation of history.”
Jay Rayner’s Quest for the Perfect Salt Beef Sandwich
This is the food of the Ashkenazi Jews—a dish engineered against Russian winters. I love a torn basil leaf as much as the next aspirational foodie but sometimes, only saturated animal fats will do.
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