
I came to Salfit, a large agricultural village south of Nablus in the West Bank, to speak with Saleh Afaneh, head of the Engineering Department here, about sewage being dumped into the town from the Israeli settlement, called Ariel, sprawling across the nearby hills. Saleh is a squat, bald fellow with rectangular glasses who smokes Gauloises like a French chimney. At one point while talking with him, I scribble “benevolent bureaucrat” in my notebook.Saleh tells me that Ariel has one small sewage treatment plant, which was built to handle the 7,000 people who lived in the settlement twenty years ago. After Ariel expanded to almost 20,000 people, the plant got overwhelmed—it started breaking down constantly and provided insufficient treatment levels even when it was running. In 2008, it cut out altogether; since then, raw wastewater from Ariel has flowed freely into Salfit. Here, the shit quite literally rolls downhill.

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