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Music

THUMP Investigates Japanese Electronica, Part 2: One Night In Tokyo

THUMP's tour Of Tokyo by night.

It's peak hour and the Eastern sun has set on downtown Shibuya. You've finished your yakitori and agedashi tofu at the local Izakaya and the busy staff are hustling you to exit as you're well past the two hour time limit. You've spent the day sightseeing and bathing in warm onsen and now you're ready for the next stage in your escapade. Both eyes stinging from the early wakeup and arms strained from carrying souvenir-filled bags around Harajuku, you know you must fight these demons as the day is not over. Far from it.

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You embark on the second stage of your night, affectionately referred to as 'second party' in Japanese idiom, not before swigging the remaining spicy dregs of the house sake and downing your final unagi (Japanese culture deems it rude to not complete your meal). Wandering outside, you shade your eyes; the neon lights shockingly more bright in the dark than the light of day, and find your way to the famed Karaokekan Shinjuku karaoke bar before being escorted to a private room filled with your soon to be newfound Japanese friends. Microphone firmly in hand and another round of sake ordered via trusty intercom, the disco lights and radiant paint amplify the sound already booming from the speakers. The benches face towards a giant screen showcasing incongruous images not in any way related to the song's subject matter and lyrics that have suffered a serious bout of 'lost in translation'. You are in the Bill Murray & Scarlett Johansson venue from the movie of aforementioned phrase, after all.

You make your way through a mix of dated ballads and JPop, your throat now hoarse and the only successful numbing agent offered in the form of the third bottle of sake, when you realise a couple of your weaker companions have smokebombed amongst the out of tune vocals and clanging of overused tambourines. This is a wise move on their behalf, according to experienced locals, who claim it's better to disappear from the 'second party' in this style to avoid being at risk of being dragged back in before the 'third party' commences and there's no turning back. You raise your sakazuki, cheers to good health, good friends, proclaim you didn't need those flakey friends anyway, and continue onto the third instalment of your adventure with your new companions in tow.

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This final stage is what this entire day has been leading towards. With some bars and clubs located considerable distances apart, great caution must be taken to ensure you get the place right at first go. You are provided with a wealth of options but which one will you choose for your one night in Tokyo?

ageHa - 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto-ku
Famed as the largest club in Tokyo, ageHa is the place of choice for those wanting to be completely enveloped in their surroundings. Comprised of three dancefloors, countless bars, a poolside stage, chillout spaces and a questionable, secret, lockable room conveniently located near the female toilets, there's no shortage of scenarios that could take place in the cavernous megaclub. Boasting international names the likes of Porter Robinson and Digitalism, who pulsate their beats through the world famous sound system designed by Jim Toth of Timbre Tech, ageHa is an electronic metropolis of late night dancing and debauchery. Slightly impaired by its far flung location on the outskirts of Tokyo, ageHa can be an impediment for parties worried about catching the infamous last train back to civilisation. Those who choose to live on the edge may opt to board a late night shuttle bus or even pay a hefty cab fare in favour of being able to watch the afterhour acts.

Dommune - Sunrise Bldg. B1F, 4-6-5, Higashi, Shibuya
Dommune is Japan's take on Boiler Room in that it's a live streaming studio. On weekdays, the small, basement club plays host to DJs who play sets streamed on their website and are also interviewed. The DJs mostly consist of Japanese producers playing house and techno but occasionally it pulls in some international guests; SBTRKT and Derrick May are two names that have graced the Dommune stage. The space is only large enough for about 50 people, so you best be ready to get there early and squeeze in. If you don't make it in, there's always the option of streaming from your phone outside you may still feel some of the vibrations coming from the inside.

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Unit - ZA House Bldg, 1-34-17 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku
Unit is a stylish music space that offers more sheen than grunge. The three story venue, known for its use of visuals and sound quality, houses almost 600 people and plays host to some of the most exciting international and local acts. While you'll find a broad range of genres here, there's plenty of electronica to sink your teeth into. Guests already lined up for the latter part of this year include Night Slugs, Mala and Maurice Fulton. While there are high ceilings and plenty of room, things still get sweaty here with a young, excitable crowd. If you stumble in any day, you're likely to hear a local producer spinning everything from Jpop to dubstep.

Liquidroom - 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya
Host of the Electronic Music of Art Festival, a new arrival to the festival circuit advancing into its second year, Liquidroom is a live music and club venue frequented by gig loving locals. Previously located in Kabukicho, the seedy district of Shinjuku, it was largely known as a location for techno and house nights but has since changed its focus since the 2004 relaunch in the more upmarket Ebisu. Favouring live events in the place of club nights, the long, rectangular space now has more of an indie rock focus, so those looking for an electronic charged night out had best frequent Liquidroom during EMAF 2014, corresponding with the Red Bull Music Academy Tokyo event being held in October and November. These nights will host a wealth of electronic acts including Gilles Peterson, Toshio Matsuura, CroMagnon, Yann Tomita, DJ Sprinkles and many more.

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Womb - 2-16 Maruyamacho Shibuya
And finally, the be all and end all to all clubs in Tokyo. Considered a Japanese icon, Womb is a 1000 capacity megaclub that not only boasts one of the largest mirror balls in the world but also some of the biggest DJs like Sven Vath, Richie Hawtin and Gesaffelstein just to name a few. Just last month it also played host to Jpop megastar, Kyary Pamyu Pamyu. Cure your Sunday blues with a healthy dose of EDM, delivered straight to you by a night aptly named 'EDM Sundays' or scout some local artists on particular nights focused on supporting new musicians from around Japan. Four stories high, you'd want to make sure your dancing shoes also double as your hiking ones. Equipped with a hitech digital soundsystem, quality lighting, lasers and strobes, Womb will cocoon you into its warm, lightfilled, beating heart, joining locals and expatriates alike into a generic, heaving mass of bodies. Be aware of dress code and 'face control' when waiting in the sometimes lengthy line; Womb's bouncers tend to be picky when it comes to choosing its patrons.

Getting home
Tokyo is a ticking clock and time there can go faster than a New York minute, so be aware: if you miss your last train home and don't have the money for the hefty taxi fee or the capacity to wait for next day's first train, you must be prepared with a Plan B. Luckily, Tokyo provides its citizens with a wealth of options of how their night will conclude.

Found a special someone?
Make your merry way straight to a Love Hotel and check in for the night. With entrances not visible from the main road, these hard to find, kitschy establishments can cater your short term needs with a variety of different amenities in a variety of different themes. Feeling Hello Kitty inspired? Or feeling perhaps a little more underwater inclined? With over 25,000 love hotels spread over Japan, there's something for everyone. Built for the purpose of a quick checkin/checkout, many of the institutions don't even contain a front desk. Instead, rooms can be chosen via vending machine or on a lighted board of choices. The morning walk of shame is also made much easier by simple payment performed either through a pneumatic tube or by yen bills slipped into a computer, automatically unlocking the exit.

Missed your last train home?
Once it reaches midnight and fueiho, an antiquated law that prohibits dancing from twelve o'clock onwards, comes into effect, then maybe it's time to find a place to rest for the night. Popular amongst Japan's 'salarymen', Capsule Hotels are the perfect answer to those left on the wrong side of town and wanting a safe place to anchor down for the night. Cheap and compact and equipped with bedding amenities and tie vending machines for those attending work the following day, the pure novelty of the experience will almost overshadow the distress of missing your intended ride home.

Perhaps you'd prefer to rough it and get the full Tokyo nightlife experience?
Do as the locals do and nap at either a Manga comic book store or Karaoke cafe until your first train arrives. Both come equipped with private reading rooms furnished with couches and are a generally safe alternative to your hotel bed. Or, why not do yourself and your Mother proud, and party all night long until the first train the following day. Show your flakey friends what you're made of.

Bianca once met Bill Murray in Tokyo and repeated the same evening Groundhog Day style until they achieved the perfect clubbing experience. You can hear more from Bianca on Twitter