Ask a non-Austin Texan about the capital city's nightlife and you will inevitably be pointed to Sixth Street, a nine-block downtown stretch with enough bars and debauchery to rival New Orleans's Bourbon Street. Which is all well and good for transient college students and out-of-town bachelorette parties, the prime clientele for "Dirty Sixth," but Austinites know the best way to enjoy the city is to slow things down. Eat BBQ until it seeps through your pores, then stumble into a record shop or down a cocktail or three as the sun goes down. The heat here is oppressive, and moving too fast exerts precious energy better spent fighting off hyperthermia or belting out John Prine tunes at karaoke. Here are some recommendations if you find yourself lost in the Austin nighttime looking for meaning.
7–8 PM
VINYL BINGE AT BREAKAWAY RECORDS
More to do nearby: Pop next door to vintage boutique Blue Velvet and try not to buy the whole damn store. It's a little on the pricier side, but well worth it for the jaw-dropping 20s-era flapper gowns. Clothes are meticulously sorted by decade and vetted for any kind of damage before they hit the rack.The team responsible for Kemuri Tatsu-ya first made waves with the much-vaunted Ramen Tatsu-ya, which could be one of the best noodle soup purveyors in the country. Still, this is Austin. The point is to eat meat, damnit, and that's what this little gem delivers in spades. The Texas-style izakaya offers a traditional lineup (yakitori, kushiyaki, sashimi), but the menu is also stuffed with delicious bastardizations of the small-plate Japanese gastropubs. The Hot Pocketz are, perhaps, the biggest (but tastiest) offender. Anything that emulates America's most infamous frozen food calls for initial skepticism, but this flaky pastry hugging juicy brisket and an ungodly amount of melted gouda cheese is a must order. Another must is the BBQ Boat, which combines the usual Texas barbecue suspects of brisket and pork tenderloin with smoked eel tender enough to cut with a chopstick.Don't want to wait? Make a reservation. Or chill out and take advantage of the full-service bar outside and soak in what can only be described as the Japanese take on an old Texas saloon. Just don't get too drunk before you eat. You'll want to remember this meal.
8–10 PM
MEAT AND MORE MEAT AT KEMURI TATSU-YA
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10 PM–12 AM
SECRET DRINKS AT MIDNIGHT COWBOY
More to do nearby: Midnight Cowboy was full? Stuck in the middle of Sixth Street bedlam? Truth be told, there's one other redeeming bar on the Dirty: Mug Shots. The absolute polar, grungy opposite of Midnight Cowboy. It's charming in its own right: Crowds flock there for the cheap beer and laid-back atmosphere then stay for the wonders of the rat wall outside. (Yes, that's exactly what it sounds like.)Hands down the best dive bar in town, Deep Eddy encapsulates the old small-town Austin that so many newer establishments unsuccessfully chase. Try a glass of something from their "fancy wine list"—the most expensive glass is $8—but the real specialty here is beer. A dirt-cheap selection of pitchers with an emphasis on Texas brews makes this an easy place to cap out the bar-time hours (bars in Austin close at 2 AM).
12–2 AM
BREWS WITH THE LOCALS AT DEEP EDDY CABARET
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2–4 AM
BELT ONE OUT AT AUSTIN KARAOKE
4–6 AM
TEX-MEX AT LAS CAZUELAS
6–7 AM
LOOK OUT AT ZILKER LOOKOUT
More to do nearby: Go say hey to the Stevie Ray Vaughn statue, which stands guard over Auditorium Shores, and say a silent prayer to the guitar hero, because, if anyone knows a thing or two about your blues (and Austin), it's SRV.All photos by Parker Thornton.