Q&A: Barbara Burchfield

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Sustainability Week

Q&A: Barbara Burchfield

Barbara Burchfield, co-founder of Conscious Commerce, creative director of Riot.House, and producer of the Global Citizen Festival, speaks with us about the challenges of sustainable fashion.

VICE: Why does fashion play such a pivotal role in our world today?
Barbara Burchfield: The world uses fashion in so many ways —as a means of self-expression, a political force, a way of belonging to a larger community. So it's little wonder that fashion is a $1.2 trillion industry. Americans alone spend over half $1 billion a day on clothing. Economic figures aside, what you wear every day communicates who you choose to be to others. Fashion is our first impression, our first foot in the room, so it speaks volumes about who we are as individuals.

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In your opinion, how can the fashion industry become more sustainable?
We need a massive overhaul in the way we design, produce, sell, buy, and ultimately dispose of our clothing. I believe it begins with awareness. Consumers should know where their clothes are made: Are the brands we're buying sustainable? How are they producing clothes? Who is laboring? How are dyes disposed of? One of the first steps is teaching consumers to investigate their own labels.

On a related note, technology is making it possible to do better business with thoughtful products. This may mean a slightly smaller profit margin for supplies, but a larger consciousness that will generate a loyal, intelligent consumer base. Do you think our actions as consumers—consuming less, pushing for positive changecan lead to two-way change in the industry as well?
One hundred percent. The actions of the consumers will affect the way the industry produces and sells product. It has already. Consumers have incredible influence over the environementally conscious decisions of manufacturers or the lack thereof. If consumers ask the right questions, brands will need thoughtful answers.

Do you believe small businesses can bring new approaches to sustainability? How are they changing the situation?
In many ways, it's easier for small businesses to craft a sustainable carbon footprint from the outset. Small businesses are more flexible, more nimble —able to enact manufacturer change at "time zero" instead of trying to catch up on our green agenda. As these fledgling businesses evolve into fashion powerhouses, they have their impact already "baked in" to our system. Just look at brands like Everlane and Reformation —young brands that are changing the way we think about production. Do you believe the fashion supply chain is something we can change? How can each business do it?
That's why we are here in Coppenhagen. This change starts with awareness and education at all levels, from top-level execs to the consumer on the other end. There is an incredible pride in doing things the right way. What kind of change do you hope to be a part of through your life and work in this industry?
Transparency.

This article was paid for by Copenhagen Fashion Summit and was created independently from VICE's editorial staff.