VICE: Why does fashion play such a pivotal role in our world today?
Orsola de Castro: Fashion is our chosen skin, a reflection of our personal image, as well as a multitrillion-dollar and relatively young megabusiness. As clothing affects 100 percent of the population, this industry can only grow in stature and expansion. It is also the only industry with planned obsolescence built into its core design, therefore demanding constant change and reinvention. It is the perfect mass-production machine. Everyone wants a piece of the fashion pie.
Orsola de Castro: Fashion is our chosen skin, a reflection of our personal image, as well as a multitrillion-dollar and relatively young megabusiness. As clothing affects 100 percent of the population, this industry can only grow in stature and expansion. It is also the only industry with planned obsolescence built into its core design, therefore demanding constant change and reinvention. It is the perfect mass-production machine. Everyone wants a piece of the fashion pie.
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Why do you feel fashion should think about sustainability?
Because it is a relative young industry — no more than 35 years old, compared with car manufacturing, which is 130 years old, and cinema, 100 years old — it has a real chance to get it right in its infancy and lead in sustainable thinking.How do you think fashion impacts the planet?
It is the second-most polluting industry in the world, but it provides jobs for millions of people, mainly women, so its impact on both people and the planet is enormous.Do you think our actions as consumers — consuming less, pushing for positive change — can lead to two-way change in the industry as well?
Consumers, or citizens, as I prefer to call them, are an active part of the solution, in every small choice they make. It could be buying less, or buying better, or bringing the campaign to their homes. There are enough ways to get involved to suit each of us if we want to be part of the change.What questions should consumers be asking brands to reinforce the changes we need?
Who made my clothes?What is your biggest concern about the way fashion is currently produced and manufactured?
Sheer ignorance, lack of transparency, and a systemic failure to address these issues in a regulated, lawful way, from wages to waste.Speaking of good examples — Scandinavia is a front-runner in regard to looking at waste as a resource rather than just a nuisance. Are there any initiatives you could highlight as a best practice in your country?
The UK has led this movement from the onset, but we don't have much of a fashion industry over here, so our impact is intellectual as opposed to practical. But from the Center for Sustainable Fashion, to textile environmental design, to fashion revolution — in terms of campaigning — to design and sustainable thinking, we are unique. Right now, for example, the Modern Slavery Act is ahead of its game in terms of positive, enforceable change.
Because it is a relative young industry — no more than 35 years old, compared with car manufacturing, which is 130 years old, and cinema, 100 years old — it has a real chance to get it right in its infancy and lead in sustainable thinking.How do you think fashion impacts the planet?
It is the second-most polluting industry in the world, but it provides jobs for millions of people, mainly women, so its impact on both people and the planet is enormous.Do you think our actions as consumers — consuming less, pushing for positive change — can lead to two-way change in the industry as well?
Consumers, or citizens, as I prefer to call them, are an active part of the solution, in every small choice they make. It could be buying less, or buying better, or bringing the campaign to their homes. There are enough ways to get involved to suit each of us if we want to be part of the change.What questions should consumers be asking brands to reinforce the changes we need?
Who made my clothes?What is your biggest concern about the way fashion is currently produced and manufactured?
Sheer ignorance, lack of transparency, and a systemic failure to address these issues in a regulated, lawful way, from wages to waste.Speaking of good examples — Scandinavia is a front-runner in regard to looking at waste as a resource rather than just a nuisance. Are there any initiatives you could highlight as a best practice in your country?
The UK has led this movement from the onset, but we don't have much of a fashion industry over here, so our impact is intellectual as opposed to practical. But from the Center for Sustainable Fashion, to textile environmental design, to fashion revolution — in terms of campaigning — to design and sustainable thinking, we are unique. Right now, for example, the Modern Slavery Act is ahead of its game in terms of positive, enforceable change.
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Do you believe that small businesses can bring new approaches to sustainability? How are they changing the scenario?
Small is the new big. There is no diversity in the fashion industry right now; it's either mass-produced fast fashion or fast luxury. We have to start making space for smaller, artisanally minded young creatives. Again, in London, most young designers have embraced ethics and innovative sustainability as the new avant-garde.Do you believe the fashion supply chain is something we can change? How can each business contribute?
Transparency is the first step. But there is so much work to be done, as the textile and fashion supply chain is complicated and its workers are invisible. We need to shine a light, unravel this thread, and then we will begin to understand how to change and ameliorate, from the seed of the cotton all the way to the storytelling of the product.What kind of change do you hope to be a part of through your life and work in this industry?
I have been involved since 1997 as a designer first, then a mentor, and now I am also a campaigner. But my real passion, and where I see myself as being more effective, is in my advising role to young designers. I work with many, both in my role as practitioner in residence for the Central Saint Martins fashion M.A. and as a mentor, and I am infinitely inspired by the attitude of the new generation of designers. Focusing on them, influencing their journey, and making them both aware and conscious of how to create a better industry is where I feel energized and inspiredWhat encouragement would you give someone who's just waking up to the impact fashion has on the environment and on the people behind the products?
Be curious, find out, do something.What inspires you in this undertaking?
My kids, my life, history.This article was paid for by Copenhagen Fashion Summit and was created independently from VICE's editorial staff.
Small is the new big. There is no diversity in the fashion industry right now; it's either mass-produced fast fashion or fast luxury. We have to start making space for smaller, artisanally minded young creatives. Again, in London, most young designers have embraced ethics and innovative sustainability as the new avant-garde.Do you believe the fashion supply chain is something we can change? How can each business contribute?
Transparency is the first step. But there is so much work to be done, as the textile and fashion supply chain is complicated and its workers are invisible. We need to shine a light, unravel this thread, and then we will begin to understand how to change and ameliorate, from the seed of the cotton all the way to the storytelling of the product.What kind of change do you hope to be a part of through your life and work in this industry?
I have been involved since 1997 as a designer first, then a mentor, and now I am also a campaigner. But my real passion, and where I see myself as being more effective, is in my advising role to young designers. I work with many, both in my role as practitioner in residence for the Central Saint Martins fashion M.A. and as a mentor, and I am infinitely inspired by the attitude of the new generation of designers. Focusing on them, influencing their journey, and making them both aware and conscious of how to create a better industry is where I feel energized and inspiredWhat encouragement would you give someone who's just waking up to the impact fashion has on the environment and on the people behind the products?
Be curious, find out, do something.What inspires you in this undertaking?
My kids, my life, history.This article was paid for by Copenhagen Fashion Summit and was created independently from VICE's editorial staff.