Ten years after the US invasion of Iraq, we return to Baghdad to see how the city is doing. Our guide is Waleed Nesyif, the former lead singer of Acrassicauda. He’s returning home for the first time in eight years, and it’s sure to be a tearful reunion with his family.

In part one, VICE founder Suroosh Alvi hangs with a Baghdadi biker gang who fondly remember the days of Saddam’s rule, and we get a tour of a city that used to be covered nonstop in the American media, but now seems to be somewhat forgotten.