Up-and-Comers – UK

Somewhere among the pulsating mass of young designers and wannabe trendsetters that choke the streets of London are a few new faces who are ready to do great things on fashion’s front lines. We had a word with three of them about the “scene”, itchy pants, and public executions. NOVA DANDO
VICE: When and why did you get into fashion?
Nova Dando:

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Describe your work please. What inspires you? Everyday life or higher sources? What do you think of the London fashion scene? Who would you like to see wear your clothes, celebrity-wise? Do you find being in the fashion world forces you to mix with unsavoury types? What would you change about the industry if you could? What popular fashion items would you ban if you could? CHARLIE LE MINDU
VICE: Where are you from?
Charlie Le Mindu:
Are you a designer or a hair stylist? How do you make a wig into jewellery? How important is hair to fashion? When did you get involved in the fashion world? What is your day-to-day life like as far as your work is concerned? How would you do your hair if you were going to be publicly executed? Do you spend much time on your own hair? What do you think of the fashion scene among young people in the UK? Are there many new designers whose work you think is interesting? What specific scene would you say you fit into?

PRISTINE SMUT
VICE: Who is Pristine Smut?
Liria Pristine:
Pristine Smut is the tag team duo consisting of Liria Pristine and Rosie Kent.

Where are you from?
I was born in Toronto and Rosie was born in a pink house up north in Cumbria.

When was Pristine Smut born?
We started designing together as Pristine Smut after graduating from Central Saint Martins last year. Rosie studied jewellery design, and I graduated from fashion knitwear. We wanted to bring together the delicacies of jewellery and knitting.

Why such a salacious name for your brand?
Rosie’s graduate jewellery collection was slightly risqué, designed under the name Smutlane. When we got together to create an accessories collection, it seemed fitting to be called Pristine Smut. Rosie can’t design without a bit of filth, and Pristine needs Smut.

Describe your work to us.
Our debut collection draws from the 1920s. It displays vulgarity in a modest fashion, modern pleasures in an elegant light. Our label is associated with all things sophisticated and decadent.

What do you think of the role of knitwear in the fashion world right now?
I think over the last few years knitwear has become important in the fashion world. Strong knitwear designers are emerging, and designers are using more of it in their collections. It should continue growing as it is an underrated medium, but in the sense of the amount of work involved in producing an amazing piece.

Are knitted pants itchy?
If you want them to be. Rosie seems to be very happy in my knitted knickers. We’d love you to have a try.

Do you use wool? Does all wool smell funny when it gets rained on, like school blazers? I hate that smell.
We are more interested in using Lurex and wire! The sun always shines on Pristine Smut.

What do you think of the young designers in London right now?
We think there is a lot of young talent in London, but the talented ones don’t necessarily get the publicity they deserve here. London is very much about trends and in-your-face designers. Therefore, it is not a very healthy scene. I don’t think it takes much to get noticed here, whereas in somewhere like Paris they seem to respect talent more.

What’s the next big thing?
Big jewellery and erogenous zones.

 

PHOTOS: GUY STEPHENS
STYLING: NOVA DANDO

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