I tracked down one of the Portuguese capital’s Chinês clandestinos, the hidden eateries operating from the homes of some entrepreneurial Chinese residents.
For chef Laurent Quenioux of the underground supper club Bistro LQ, raw cheeses are a way of life. His cheese cart is exclusively filled with raw cheeses from around the world that he smuggles in himself.
Everything was going fine until two cops rolled up and asked, “Do you have your permits?” I answered yes, but I didn’t have the permits. I thought it was all over but little did I know that run-in with the law was just what my business needed.