American Able

Whilst searching the blogoshpere we came across a series off images by Photographer Holly Norris called American Able, the photographs were intended to parody and satirise the clothing brand American Apparel that claim the models they use in the shoots are just everyday people, not professional models. Holly disagrees, claiming the models still fit a particular acceptable body image and don’t represent people with disabilities. We got in touch with Jes Sachse, the model that Holly used to find out more.

Do you think the artist was a bit lazy in the way she used you as a way off challenging conceptions off the ‘normal’ model and  do you think  she used you to try and make her work more sensational as the rest off her stuff is pretty boring?

I don’t think Holly was ignorant to the sensation that using me as a model would create and after all artists hoping to make a living off their work obviously want exposure that will further their own career. I can only have faith that her intention was to honour me and my representation while opening a dialogue on a political issue. You’d be hardpressed to tell me that if I took a self portrait I was exploiting the sensational. If Holly takes a picture of me its sensational, because you don’t see bodies like mine in this context unless your reading a medical textbook.

Do you still feel that the clothing industry sees disabled models as a taboo?

Yes, we’re still tokenized and invisible within the industry. Imagine seeing some gorgeous ensembles designed for a spine that’s curved in four directions like mine ,I have a double s-curve, it’s hot!!

What are peoples general reaction to the images?

Many friends and allies have affirmed the work outright. Others from the PHD’ed to the Paul Smith’s seem torn in dialogue of how ‘how far is too far for a good cause’. They fear any sexuality expressed by a disabled model as exploitation. Sure I don’t have to sexualize myself, but why not?

What do you think American Apparel would say about the project?

Not sure actually. I know they gave Holly the go-ahead to release the work in the TTC alongside their own ads, but I don’t know if anyone from the LA office gave an official statement. I haven’t heard anything. If I had to guess…I’m sure they’re making cracks around the water cooler about it. Charney’s probably ironing his lycra pants with the hype.

Were you nervous about posing for the project?

No not at all. I enjoyed the shoot. I’m used to posing, as an artist myself and as a performer. After working in self portraiture for a few years, I’ve developed a relationship with my body that is very connected to my physical quirks and my emotional spirit. I’m used to the gaze.

What do you hope the project can achieve?

You can ask Holly. As the subject, I don’t give a shit about changing people’s minds – my body doesn’t hinge on the approval of commuters, bloggers, doctors, or academics. This is a spoof of American Apparel. This is not an ad for ‘Hug a Cripple Day’. It’s satire. It’s a photograph. Some people will respect this work. Some people will feel represented in it. And that’s great. But that’s not my goal. I’ll leave that to Sesame Street and Jerry Lewis.

Did you have a particular favourite item off clothing that you modelled?

Good question, I’d say my fave would have to be the shiny leather pants but they’re not actually from AA. I keep imagining how baddass I’d feel in leather with my combat boots. AA should send me some free shit, like a gold onesie, I’d totally wear that!

Do you think there is a lack of clothing aimed at disabled people?

Fuck ya. That’s the interesting thing about American Apparel. Concept-wise, the leggings and lycra and their stretch factor is quirky and body friendly. My spine makes shopping tricky sometimes, given my options,

Who is the guy in some of the shots?

My friend Dana Levine from Montreal. She identifies as genderqueer. And hot. If anyone’s in the market for an androgynous model, she’s your girl(/man).

Hypothetically lets say if Playboy or indeed even American Apparel called you up and asked you to pose for them what would you say?

I would say, that’s a tricky question. There is still a need for increased representation of people with disabilities in porn and fashion advertizing. Personally, I’d rather work for companies whose ethical standards I can be 100% behind. But that’s not always an option when you want to a) see your body represented in the mainstream and b) need to find work. If I were able to retain my agency, pride, and a paycheque, well sure.